On March 20, Queen Letizia of Spain was at the Vatican for an audience with Pope Leo XIV, and what she was wearing carried much more significance than it might seem at first glance.
Wearing white at the Vatican is not a style choice; it is a protocolary privilege held by only a few women in the world. This privilege, known as the “privilège du blanc,” is held by the queens of Catholic monarchies, which in practice means Letizia, Mathilde of Belgium, Charlene of Monaco, and Stéphanie of Luxembourg, among a few others. All other heads of state and first ladies wear black.
What dress did Letizia choose for the audience, and why didn’t she wear a mantilla?
For the occasion, Letizia wore a new, pristine-white bouclé dress with long sleeves, a fitted waist, and a flared skirt—classic and uncompromising.
What drew attention was that she was not wearing a mantilla or a veil, which at the Vatican is typically associated with the image of queens.
The explanation is a matter of protocol, as covering the head is mandatory during solemn liturgical ceremonies, such as a mass. This visit was a private audience at the Vatican Library, which is a different format.
Back in 2014, during her introductory visit to Pope Francis, Letizia also did not wear a mantilla.
However, in May of last year, when she attended the mass for the start of Pope Leo XIV’s pontificate, she did wear a white mantilla. Protocol is determined by the type of event, not by the occasion.
The jewelry Letizia chose
To offset the simplicity of her dress, Letizia made a thoughtful choice from her jewelry box. The earrings are by Ansorena and feature a round diamond at the top, from which four smaller diamonds dangle, ending in pearls.
She wore them for the first time at Princess Leonor’s christening in January 2006. The earrings are detachable, so they can be worn with just the top diamond or as a complete set, as she chose on this occasion.
She completed the look with camel-colored pumps and a camel-colored Magrit bag, as well as an Amor Che Tutto Move ring from Coreterno. The ensemble works precisely because it doesn’t compete with anything; the dress takes center stage, and the jewelry complements it.